From sweet cakes to savoury terrines, these fall-forward recipes celebrate the rich variety and flavour of one of autumn’s most versatile vegetables.

You know autumn is near when squash starts showing up everywhere — piled high at farmers’ markets, featured on restaurant menus, and nestled into decorative bowls on dining tables and front porches. From pumpkins to gourds, squash and other members of the cucurbit family make a bold return each fall.

While root vegetables often take centre stage in hearty autumn meals, squash is never far behind. Varieties such as butternut, acorn and spaghetti have long been favoured for their versatility and accessibility. But wander through a farmers’ market these days and you’ll discover a broader cast of characters — kabocha, hubbard, delicata, buttercup, red kuri — each with its own personality.

Some squashes are interchangeable in recipes, but many bring unique textures and flavours. Spaghetti squash, with its noodle- like strands, is in a category of its own. Summer squashes, such as zucchini, delicata, pattypan and crookneck, are picked in the summer, as the name suggests, which keeps their skin tender, making them great for grilling, baking or stir-frying without the need for peeling.

For the recipes that follow, skip the more delicate or unconventional types. You need a squash that holds its shape when cut — something firm and dense. Butternut is a solid choice (especially the long neck, which slices beautifully for a layered terrine), but for deeper, richer flavour, consider kabocha, hubbard or red kuri.